The Berg Companion to Fashion by Valerie Steele (Editor, Editor)- An essential reference for students, curators and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, and the expanding range of disciplines that see fashion as imbued with meaning far beyond the material. - Over 300 in-depth entries covering designers, articles of clothing, key concepts and styles. - Edited and introduced by Valerie Steele, a scholar who has revolutionized the study of fashion, and who has been described by The Washington Post as one of "fashion's brainiest women." Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is anything but a neutral topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even amongst those who may feel impervious. This handy volume is a one-stop reference for anyone interested in fashion - its meaning, history and theory. From Avedon to Codpiece, Dandyism to the G-String, Japanese Fashion to Subcultures, Trickle down to Zoot Suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of this most fascinating of topics and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come.
Call Number: *R-ART GT511 .B47 2010
Publication Date: 2010
The Complete Costume Dictionary by Elizabeth J. LewandowskiWhile there are costume and fashion dictionaries tied to specific countries or periods, none have been comprehensive. In The Complete Costume Dictionary, Elizabeth Lewandowski has collected from a variety of sources--including costume history texts, journal articles, historical publications, autobiographies, biographies, foreign language dictionaries, and contemporary publications--to create a resource that spans the globe, from the earliest record of fashion to the 21st century. Including more than 20,000 fashion and costume terms, this volume also features more than 300 illustrations. The first section of the book is an alphabetical listing of these words with their definitions, period, and country of origin. This volume also contains appendixes that list the terms by country of origin, period, and type of clothing. The book is not limited to the Western World and includes both archaic and current terms. Significantly greater in scope than anything currently available--online or in print--this one-of-a-kind publication is an invaluable resource for costume and fashion historians, textile preservationists, period re-enactors, and history and theatre scholars, as well as theatre professionals.
Call Number: *R-ART GT507 .L49 2011
Publication Date: 2011
The Dictionary of Fashion History by Valerie Cumming; C. W. Cunnington; P. E. Cunnington- What is an Apollo knot? - Who wore a Welch wig? - When were Zouave jackets the height of fashion? This new edition of The Dictionary of Fashion History further updates the landmark work of C. Willett Cunnington, Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard. Featuring over 60 new and revised entries on diverse topics such as the Onesie, Brothel Creepers and the Birkin Bag, this edition is even more comprehensive and brings this costume historian's bible fully up to date. With many more images to accompany the text and illustrate key fashions - including cartoons, prints and lavish color photographs of surviving garments - this version of the dictionary brings dazzling and unusual garments to life for researchers, students, costume designers and everyone interested in the subject. Clear, concise, and meticulous in detail, this essential reference work answers countless questions relating to the history of dress and adornment and will continue to be the definitive guide for many years to come.
Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion by Valerie Steele"Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, has crafted, with the help of 325 contributors, an authoritative introduction to fashion, the industry, and the issues that hve defined the field. Some 640 articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison dress. There are color plates and nearly 600 black-and-white illustrations. Back matter includes a comprehensive index, a timeline, and a topical outline."--"Reference that rocks," American Libraries, May 2005.
Call Number: *R-ART GT507 .E53 2005 v. 1-3
Publication Date: 2004
Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion by Joanne B. EicherPublishing in summer 2010 in print and online, the 10-volume Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion is the first comprehensive reference work to explore all aspects of dress and fashion globally - from pre-history to the present day. Arranged geographically and written by an internationalteam of experts, the Encyclopedia will serve as the go-to source for all issues relating the art and anthropology of costume, dress, and fashion the world over for students, scholars, members of the design and fashion industries, and fashion aficionados for years to come.The Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion brings together for the first time the work of over 600 renowned scholars from every part of the globe. All articles have been specially commissioned and particular effort has been made to commission articles by indigenous scholars with in-depth localknowledge.
Call Number: *R-ART GT507 .E54 2010
Publication Date: 2010
Ethnic Dress in the United States by Annette Lynch (Editor); Mitchell D. Strauss (Editor)The clothes we wear tell stories about us--and are often imbued with cultural meanings specific to our ethnic heritage. This concise A-to-Z encyclopedia explores 150 different and distinct items of ethnic dress, their history, and their cultural significance within the United States. The clothing artifacts documented here have been or are now regularly worn by Americans as everyday clothing, fashion, ethnic or religious identifiers, or style statements. They embody the cultural history of the United States and its peoples, from Native Americans, white Anglo colonists, and forcibly relocated black slaves to the influx of immigrants from around the world. Entries consider how dress items may serve as symbolic linkages to home country and family or worn as visible forms of opposition to dominant cultural norms. Taken together, they offer insight into the ethnic-based core ideologies, myths, and cultural codes that have played a role in the formation and continued story of the United States.
Call Number: *R-RMRR GT605 .E35 2015
Publication Date: 2014
Fashion : critical and primary sources by Peter McNeil (Editor)Winner of the Art Association of Australia and New Zeland prize for Best Edited Book, 2010. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources is a major multi-volume work of reference which brings together seminal writings on Fashion. The geographical range of the essays crosses Europe, Asia and North America. The essays reveal the wide set of methodological approaches which all bear on the study of Fashion - Sociology, Art History and Cultural History, Anthropology, Social Theory, Dress and Textile Studies. Ordered chronologically, the four volumes cover Late Medieval to Renaissance, the Eighteenth Century, the Nineteenth Century and the Twentieth Century to today. Each volume is separately introduced and the essays structured into coherent sections on specific themes. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources will prove a major scholarly resource for any researchers involved in the study of Fashion, Dress and Costume.
Call Number: *R-ART GT580 .F374 2009 v. 1-4
Publication Date: 2009
The Fashion Reader by Linda Welters (Editor); Abby Lillethun (Editor)This new edition of a bestselling textbook is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in contemporary fashion. The book brings together the key writings on the subject, covering the history, culture, and business of fashion. The essays are drawn from a wide range of sources - books, professional and academic journals, magazines, interviews, and exhibition catalogues. Each section is specially introduced and concludes with guides to further reading. The new edition has been entirely revised and expanded: there are new sections on psychology, ethnicity, design and manufacture, marketing and merchandising, and sustainability; several new essays have been specially written for the reader; the range of illustrations has been increased. In its second edition, The Fashion Reader is the ideal introductory text for all students of fashion
Call Number: *R-SIBL TT 507 .F3545
Publication Date: 2011
The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History by Jill Condra (Editor)How people dressed throughout history often reflects how they lived at the time, and Clothing in World History gives the reader a chance to explore clothing in a given place and time while also providing a general history to help put the costumes in context. This set takes the reader on a journey from the beginning of time to present day to look at what people wore in Europe, North America, South America, and Asia. Men's, Women's, and Children's clothing from various social classes, as well as accessories, are be included. This set is a critical guide for secondary and undergraduate students interested in history, social history, art history, fashion, and costume. It covers the history of clothing throughout the world from pre-historic times to 2006. Many cultures are included in this study of clothing within the context of social, political, economic and religious history as they pertain to each time period and place. Researchers can turn to this set first for the most essential information about a time, place, and style of dress. The three volumes are divided into comprehensive parts with the goal of making them easy to use and accessible to readers. There are other books and surveys of the history of costume that mainly concentrate on Western Europe, but few that cover different cultures and how they influence fashion in the western world. This book looks at costume throughout the world and throughout history. Includes Men's and Children's Clothing as well as Women's Clothing Includes clothing worn in non-Western countries Includes clothing worn by lower and servant classes as well as wealthy classes Includes accessories
Call Number: *R-ART GT507 .G74 2008 v.1-3
Publication Date: 2007
Hats and Headwear Around the World by Beverly ChicoThis concise encyclopedia examines headwear around the world, from ancient times to the modern era, comprising entries that address cultural significance, religion, historical events, geography, demographic and ethnic issues, fashion, and contemporary trends. Are feathers from endangered bird species still commonly used on hats? Why do many Muslim women cover their heads? How has advancing technology influenced modern headwear? This concise encyclopedia provides the answers to these questions and many more regarding headwear and human culture in its examination of headwear around the world. It examines topics from ancient times to the modern era, providing not only detailed physical descriptions and historical facts but also information that addresses cultural significance, religion, historical events, geography, demographic and ethnic issues, fashion, and contemporary trends. The entries reveal fascinating insights into headwear as historical, aesthetic, fashion, utilitarian, mystical, and symbolic apparel, and supplies comprehensive analyses of hats across the globe unavailable in the existing literature. Vividly documents the fundamental human experience and universal practice of adorning the head Highlights the global community and cultural linkages of headwear function, material, and style Directly relates hats to race, religion, ethnicity, gender, usage, and form Enables greater understanding of human diversity throughout time by tracing the development of headgear Provides dozens of sidebars to pique reader interest and offer short, witty, funny, or pertinent content
The Visible Self by Joanne B. Eicher; Sandra Lee EvensonEverywhere around the world, people make daily decisions about what to wear or how to dress. The Visible Self, 4th Edition, presents a systematic approach to analyzing daily rituals that we all share-not simply the act of putting on clothing, but also the method of cleansing the body and adorning it. Using Western and non-Western examples, the authors take a three-pronged approach to understanding dress across cultures, uncovering its relationship to human beings as biological, aesthetic, and social beings. Readings collected from classic books and academic journals enable students to appreciate the complexity of dress from a multidisciplinary perspective that includes anthropology, sociology, economics, fine arts, and the natural sciences. This new edition covers topics including social media, social responsibility, eco-fashion, plus subcultures and trends such as cosplay, making it a relevant resource for studying dress. New to this Edition: - Newly organized Part III uses John Bodley's revised analysis of sociocultural systems to relate to dress and fashion across the world - New reading by John Vollmer in Part III on the Qing Dynasty of China - Revised and expanded art program, including 65 new photographs
Call Number: *R-RMRR GT511 .E53 2015
Publication Date: 2014-08-14
World Clothing and Fashion by Mary Ellen SnodgrassTaking a global, multicultural, social, and economic perspective, this work explores the diverse and colourful history of human attire. From prehistoric times to the age of globalization, articles cover the evolution of clothing utility, style, production, and commerce, including accessories (shoes, hats, gloves, handbags, and jewellery) for men, women, and children. Dress for different climates, occupations, recreational activities, religious observances, rites of passages, and other human needs and purposes - from hunting and warfare to sports and space exploration - are examined in depth and detail. Fashion and design trends in diverse historical periods, regions and countries, and social and ethnic groups constitute a major area of coverage, as does the evolution of materials (from animal fur to textiles to synthetic fabrics) and production methods (from sewing and weaving to industrial manufacturing and computer-aided design). Dress as a reflection of social status, intellectual and artistic trends, economic conditions, cultural exchange, and modern media marketing are recurring themes. Influential figures and institutions in fashion design, industry and manufacturing, retail sales, production technologies, and related fields are also covered.
Call Number: *R-RMRR GT507 .S6 2015 v. 1-2
Publication Date: 2013
Changing Fashion by Annette Lynch; Mitchell Strauss; Joanne B. Eicher (Series edited by)Changing trends in fashion have always reflected large-scale social and cultural changes. Changing Fashion presents for the first time a multi-disciplinary approach to examining fashion change, bringing together theory from fashion studies, cultural studies, sociology, psychology and art history, amongst others. Ideal for the undergraduate student of fashion and cultural studies, the book has a wide range of contemporary and historical case material which provides practical examples of trend analysis and change, from the art deco textile designs of Sonia Delaunay to the chameleonic shifts in Bob Dylan's appearance over time. Key issues in fashion and identity, such as race, gender and consumption are examined from different disciplinary angles to provide a critical overview of the field. Changing Fashion provides a concise guide to the main theories across disciplines that explain how and why media, clothing styles, and cultural practices fall in and out of fashion.
Call Number: JQE 08-867
Publication Date: 2007
Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States by Sally Queen; Rosalyn Lester (Foreword by); Vicki L. Berger'A fine survey of the collections available and the first such guide in print' - ""California Bookwatch"". Clothing is the most personal expression of a culture. Objects of dress and adornment reveal so much about the individuals who wore them and the cultures and times in which they lived. History, art, technology, psychology, culture, social systems, customsall are reflected in peoples clothing. Countless treasures exist in clothing and textile collections across the U.S., but until now no comprehensive directory to the collections was available. ""Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States"" is the first guide to list information on more than 2,600 American collections. Included in each listing are location and contact information, and many listings also offer a brief description of the collection. This guide is essential for museum directors, costume studies professionals, and librarians, as well as anyone interested in clothing and textile history. Sally Queen, a specialist in eighteenth- and early-nineteenth-century costume and reproduction, began publishing historical fashion calendars in 1998. She is the publisher of ""Textiles for Colonial Clothing"", ""Textiles for Clothing in the Early Republic: 1800-1850"", and ""Textiles for Early Victorian Clothing: 1850-1880"". Vicki L. Berger is the director of the Arizona Historical Society Museum at Papago Park in Tempe, Arizona and a faculty member of the American Association of State and Local History. She earned her PhD in historic costume and textiles from Florida State University.
Call Number: JQE 15-702
Publication Date: 2006-05-30
Costume and Fashion by James Laver; Amy De La Haye (Revised by); Andrew Tucker (Revised by)From the momentus invention of the needle some 40,000 years ago to the development of blue denim, from Neolithic weavers to the biggest names in the fashion industry today - this classic guide covers the landmarks of costume history, the forms and materials used through the ages, the underlying motives of fashion and the ways in which clothes have been used to protect, to express identity, and to attract or to influence others. This sixth edition features a new foreword and concluding chapter by Amy de la Haye. The book is brought right up to date with a discussion about the major political shifts within the fashion industry, highlighting how it has responded to issues surrounding racism and sexism; LGBTQI rights; mental health awareness; body and age diversity and global sustainability.
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion V. 1-6 by Susan J. Vincent (Editor)A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion presents an authoritative survey from ancient times to the present. This set of six volumes covers over 2,500 years of dress and fashion. Volume 1: Antiquity (500BCE-800AD), edited by Mary HarlowVolume 2: The Medieval Age (800-1450), edited by Sarah-Grace HellerVolume 3: The Renaissance (1450-1650), edited by Elizabeth CurrieVolume 4: The Age of Enlightenment (1650-1800), edited by Peter McNeilVolume 5: The Age of Empire (1800-1920), edited by Denise Amy BaxterVolume 6: The Modern Age (1920-2000+), edited by Alexandra Palmer Each volume discusses the same key themes in its chapters:1. Textiles 2. Production and Distribution3. The Body4. Belief5. Gender and Sexuality6. Status7. Ethnicity8. Visual Representations9. Literary RepresentationsThis structure means readers can either have a broad overview of a period by reading a volume or follow a theme through history by reading the relevant chapter in each volume.Superbly illustrated, the full six volume set combines to present the most authoritative and comprehensive survey available on dress and fashion through history.The Cultural Histories SeriesA Cultural History of Dress and Fashion is part of The Cultural Histories Series. Titles are available as hardcover sets for libraries needing just one subject or preferring a tangible reference for their shelves or as part of a fully-searchable digital library. The digital product is available to institutions by annual subscription or on perpetual access via www.bloomsburyculturalhistory.com. Individual volumes for academics and researchers interested in specific historical periods are also available in print or digitally via www.bloomsburycollections.com.
Publication Date: 2016
Dress History by Charlotte Nicklas (Editor); Annebella Pollen (Editor)The field of dress history has experienced exponential growth over the past two decades. This in-depth investigation examines the expanding borders and porous boundaries of the discipline today, outlining key debates and showcasing the most exciting research.With international case studies from a wide range of scholars, the volume encompasses work from a variety of historical periods from the late 18th century to the present day. Contributors examine, critique and expand the methodologies and sources used in fashion history, analyse how dress is collected, displayed and sold, and investigate clothing's meanings and uses in the practice of identity.Exploring overlooked territories and new approaches to analysis, the book offers students and scholars a fresh appraisal of dress history in the 21st century.
Fashion, Costume, and Culture by Drew D. Johnson; Julie L. CarnagieUXLs Fashion, Costume, And Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through The Ages has all the answers in a comprehensive, chronologically based, affordably priced, four-color, six-volume set. With typical UXL high quality, UXLs Fashion, Costume, And Culture provides facts and information about the cultural, religious, and social implications of human decoration and adornment throughout history, with a particular emphasis on the decades of the 20th century. In 500 entries, detailed information about clothing, hairstyles, tattoos, jewelry, body piercing, feet binding, and other types of fashion or style is examined. Additionally, entries explain the fashion or style within the context of the traditions, customs, rituals, or practices it relates to, as well as its significance to society or culture. Entries follow a standardized format to ensure that students can easily do comparisons. Arranged chronologically, each era, century, or decade begins with a short synopsis of the historical highlights. The four main topic areas are clothing, footwear, hairstyles and headgear, and body decoration.
Publication Date: 2013
Fashion. a History from the 18th to the 20th Century by TASCHEN (Editor)Clothes define people. A person's clothing, whether it's a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential key to his or her culture, class, personality, or even religion. The Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothing sociologically, historically, and artistically. Founded in 1978, the KCI holds one of the world's most extensive clothing collections and has curated many exhibitions across the globe. With an emphasis on Western women's clothing, the KCI has amassed a wide range of historical garments, underwear, shoes, and fashion accessories dating from the 18th century to the present day. Showcasing a vast selection from the Institute's archives of skilled photographs depicting the clothing expertly displayed and arranged on custom-made mannequins, Fashion History is a fascinating excursion through the last three centuries of clothing trends. The KCI believes that "clothing is an essential manifestation of our very being" and their passion and dedication positively radiate from every page of this book. This special 25th anniversary edition has a chic new format: two volumes packaged in a slipcase. The authors: Akiko Fukai (Chief Curator of the Kyoto Costume Institute), Tamami Suoh (Curator of the Kyoto Costume Institute), Miki Iwagami (Lecturer of fashion history at Sugino Fashion College, Tokyo), Reiko Koga (Professor of fashion history at Bunka Women's University), and Rie Nii (Associate Curator of the Kyoto Costume Institute).
Call Number: *R-ART GT580 .F35 2006 v. 1-2
Publication Date: 2006
Fashion Forward 300 Years of Fashion by P. BergeTracing the evolution of fashion--from the opulence of the court of Louis XV to the catwalk couture of today--this stunningly illustrated volume charts three centuries of fashion trends and innovations. This handsome volume is published to accompany a major exhibition that chronicles fashion from the seventeenth century to the present. Featuring three hundred iconic pieces, it highlights key moments in fashion history and provides new insight into the designers, patrons, and groundbreaking techniques and materials. It also explores how fashion has always been intertwined with both fine art and the decorative arts. Many of the great couturiers were known for this artistic cross-pollination, including such towering figures as Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. Re-created here are a number of fashion inflection points illustrating fashion's elective affinities with other disciplines. Eighteenth-century wood paneling, scenic wallpapers by Zuber, and Paul Iribe's drawings for Paul Poiret, among other examples, provide perfect settings for fashion's stylistic metamorphoses culminating in the effervescence and eclecticism of today's global fashion scene.
Call Number: JQG 17-578
Publication Date: 2017
Fashion History by Linda Welters; Abby LillethunFashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time.Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.
Fashion Plates by April CalahanA sumptuously illustrated, encyclopedic chronicle of fashion and its trends, from the 18th to the early 20th century Prior to the invention of photography, European and American magazines used colorful prints to depict the latest fashion trends. These illustrations, known as "fashion plates," conveyed the cutting-edge styles embraced by the fashion-conscious elite and proved inspirational to the upwardly mobile. This lavishly illustrated book provides a comprehensive survey of 200 color plates from publications dating from 1778 to the early 20th century, accompanied by authoritative and fascinating texts. Organized chronologically and featuring both men's and women's garments, these lively and colorful vignettes not only are beautiful, but also deftly illustrate the evolution of fashion over time.
Call Number: JQG 15-605
Publication Date: 2015
The Guide to Historic Costume by Karen Baclawski"With 270 photographs and the discussion of 250 categories of costume, The Guide to Historic Costume provides the most detailed, comprehensive and up-to-date survey of surviving historic costume in a single volume." "Fabric, colour, shape, social and historical context - all give weight and substance to this authoritative source of factual information."--BOOK JACKET.Title Summary field provided by Blackwell North America, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Call Number: *R-ART GT507 .B33 1995
Publication Date: 1995
How to Read a Dress by Lydia EdwardsFashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an authoritative visual guide to women's fashion across five centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history o as well as how dresses have varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their cartridge pleats from their R camier ruffles. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' a dress, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.
Japanese Fashion by Toby SladeJapanese Fashion examines the entire sweep of Japanese clothing history, from the sophisticated fashion systems of late-Edo period kimonos to the present day, providing possible theories of how Japan made this fashion journey and linking current theories of fashion to the Japanese example. The book is unique in that it provides the first full history of the last 200 years of Japanese clothing. It is also the first book to include Asian fashion as part of global fashion as well as fashion theory. It adds a hitherto absent continuity to the understanding of historical and current fashion in Japan, and is pioneering in offering possible theories to account for that entire history. By providing an analysis of how that entire history changes our understanding of the way fashion works, this book will be an essential text for all students of fashion and design.
Call Number: *R-SIBL TT504.6.J3 .S53 2009
Publication Date: 2009
Nineteenth Century Fashion by Penelope ByrdeThe book traces the evolution of men's, women's and children's clothes throughout the 19th century, during which sweeping social changes were reflected in contemporary fashions.
Call Number: JQF 15-1321
Publication Date: 1993
Rise of Fashion by Daniel Leonhard PurdyWriting more than a century before "Vogue, no less a figure than G.W.F. Hegel reviewed the fashion of his day and found it wanting because, in becoming outmoded so quickly, it drew attention away from the timeless beauty of the human form. And Hegel is not unique among philosophers in his interest in fashion's role; for more than 250 years, social thinkers have considered fashion--its transitive nature, the conformity it inspires, the vast range of its influence--as a defining feature of modern life. In "The Rise of Fashion, Daniel Leonhard Purdy brings together key writings from the Enlightenment to the twentieth century that explore fashion as the ultimate expression of modernity. Making available many previously untranslated or otherwise unfamiliar works from French, German, and English, Purdy establishes an extraordinary lineage of fashion commentary dating back to Mandeville and Voltaire, which laid the groundwork for the writings on commodity culture of Adorno, Benjamin, and the Frankfurt School. From critiques of aristocratic excess to accounts of fashion's influence on our ideals of masculinity or femininity, from the figure of the dandy and the eroticism of clothing to the class politics of fashion, this landmark reader includes works by philosophers (Carlyle, Rousseau, Georg Simmel) and social theorists (Herbert Spencer, Veblen), as well as writers (Goethe, Baudelaire, Mallarme, Wilde) and critics (Karl Kraus, Adolf Loos, Simone de Beauvoir). Collecting and contextualizing many of the earliest and most significant formulations of fashion theory, "The Rise of Fashion provocatively examines the proposition that to be modern is to be fashionable.
Call Number: JQF 04-2378
Publication Date: 2004
Street Style by Brent LuvaasWinner of the 2019 John Collier Jr Award Street style blogging has experienced a meteoric rise in popularity over the last decade. Amateur photographers, often with no formal training in fashion, have become critical arbiters of taste and trends, influencing the representations that appear in magazines and on runways, and putting new cities on the fashion world map. This cutting-edge book documents the evolution of street style photography, from the fieldwork photos of early anthropology to the glamorized snapshots that appear on blogs today, and explores the structural shifts in the global fashion industry that street style has helped bring about.Chronicling author and anthropologist Brent Luvaas' experience over three years of blogging through vivid street imagery and rich ethnographic detail, this book turns the lens of street style photography back onto anthropology itself, arguing that the phenomenon is a powerful mode of amateur ethnography. Bloggers blur the distinction between professional and amateur, insider and outsider, self and brand. This book documents that blur from the ground level--from the streets of Philadelphia to the sidewalks of New York Fashion Week.Street Style is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, sociology, media and cultural studies, and fans of street style photography alike.
Publication Date: 2016
Streetstyle by Ted Polhemus; George W. PolhemusThis is an up-beat look at street fashion from 1940 to today, celebrating some 40 different styletribes, which will accompany a major exhibition on Streetstyle at the Victoria and Albert Museum in November 1994. We see how the styletribes interweave and evolve - the American Modernists of the early 1950s living on in the English Mods of the early 1960s, who became the Hard Mods, then the Skinheads, then the Ois ; while the 1950s Folkies became first the 1970s Hippies and then the New Age Travellers of the 1980s and 1990s.
Call Number: JQF 15-1335
Publication Date: 1994
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora; Sara B. MarckettiSurvey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, is the best-selling introduction to Western dress from the ancient world through the twenty-first century. Each chapter presents social, cross-cultural, environmental, geographic, and artistic influences on clothing. With visuals, illustrated tables, and in-depth discussions, readers come to recognize recurring themes and concepts and understand the role of dress from a diverse, global perspective. The new edition features more than 1,000 full-color photographs and illustrations, a new feature that examines global dress, and a fully updated chapter on the twenty-first century. New Student Resources ~ Survey of Historic Costume STUDIO features digital study tools such as visual flashcards, self-quizzes, videos, and assignments and activities and includes a free Student Study Guide eBook to help students master concepts and improve grades. New to this Edition ~ Chapter Timelines present an overview and images of historic events in each chapter focusing on fashion and textiles, politics and conflicts, decorative and fine arts, economics and trade, technology, and religion ~ New Global Connections boxed highlights dress and textiles from around the world including China, India, Japan, Latin America, Africa and more ~ New Chapter 20 covering twenty-first century dress from 2000 to present Key Features ~ Contemporary Comments from contemporary sources provide a sense of the attitude toward clothing of individuals of the period ~ Modern Influences photo feature explains historic costume is reinterpreted in modern fashion design ~ Visual Summary Tables show clear line drawing of period garments and Illustrated Tables depict important accessories, footwear and headwear ~ Companion Survey of Historic Costume Student Study Guide (9781628922349) includes historic snapshots, review questions, summary tables, visual quizzes and glossary of key terms. Teaching Resources ~ Instructor's Guide including sample syllabi and units based on the timeline in the book, chapter objectives, lecture notes, discussion questions, additional research projects, assignments, and an answer key for the Student Study Guide ~Test Bank with multiple choice, true/false and essay questions for each chapter with answer key ~ Image Bank with all the illustrations and photos from the text ~ PowerPoint presentations for each chapter PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501395253. STUDIO Instant Access can also be purchased or rented separately on BloomsburyFashionCentral.com.
Victorian and Edwardian Fashion by Alison GernsheimA noted photohistorian documents bonnets, capes, frock coats, caps, shawls, bodices, and crinolines as people actually wore them from 1840 through 1914. More than 200 photos depict aristocrats and the middle class as well as Oscar Wilde, Lillie Langtry, Winston Churchill, Queen Victoria, and others. Commentary and annotations describe and identify the costumes.
Call Number: 3-MMK 85-3811
Publication Date: 1982-01-01
The Worldwide History of Dress by Patricia Rieff AnawaltFrom Neolithic plant-fiber skirts, Ancient Egyptian linen shifts, and Classical togas through Mongolian shamanic robes, Japanese kimonos, and Indian saris to nineteenth-century Tyrolean dirndls, contemporary African ceremonial attire, and today's Middle Eastern burqas, every notable geographical region, historical period, and style of dress is covered here.All aspects of dress and accessories are discussed: basic men's and women's clothing, footwear, outerwear, hairstyles, headgear, jewelry, armor, special costumes, garment decoration, and face and body modification. More than one thousand illustrations include both vintage and modern-day photographs of local people in local clothing; color plates of museum-quality artifacts on display or posed on mannequins; historical paintings, miniatures, woodblock prints, and other artworks showing traditional clothing; line drawings illustrating traditional motifs and designs; and more than fifty specially commissioned maps.As well as discovering remarkable examples of actual garments and accessories, Patricia R. Anawalt has unearthed stunning representations of authentic worldwide dress in the form of statues, figurines, busts, stone plaques, monumental carvings, friezes, murals, mosaics, and pottery. Historical backgrounds on each region include descriptions of population, geography, and climate, allowing the reader to understand fully the development of an area's clothing customs.
Call Number: *R-ART GT511 .A63 2007
Publication Date: 2007
Worn by Sofi ThanhauserA sweeping and captivatingly told history of clothing and the stuff it is made of--an unparalleled deep-dive into how everyday garments have transformed our lives, our societies, and our planet. "We learn that, if we were a bit more curious about our clothes, they would offer us rich, interesting and often surprising insights into human history...a deep and sustained inquiry into the origins of what we wear, and what we have worn for the past 500 years." --The Washington Post In this panoramic social history, Sofi Thanhauser brilliantly tells five stories--Linen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Wool--about the clothes we wear and where they come from, illuminating our world in unexpected ways. She takes us from the opulent court of Louis XIV to the labor camps in modern-day Chinese-occupied Xinjiang. We see how textiles were once dyed with lichen, shells, bark, saffron, and beetles, displaying distinctive regional weaves and knits, and how the modern Western garment industry has refashioned our attire into the homogenous and disposable uniforms popularized by fast-fashion brands. Thanhauser makes clear how the clothing industry has become one of the planet's worst polluters and how it relies on chronically underpaid and exploited laborers. But she also shows us how micro-communities, textile companies, and clothing makers in every corner of the world are rediscovering ancestral and ethical methods for making what we wear. Drawn from years of intensive research and reporting from around the world, and brimming with fascinating stories, Worn reveals to us that our clothing comes not just from the countries listed on the tags or ready-made from our factories. It comes, as well, from deep in our histories.
Call Number: JFE 22-2294
Publication Date: 2022-01-25
Androgyne by Patrick MauriesThe first visually led exploration of androgyny--from representations in antiquity to its current prevalence in the fashion world and beyond In January 2011, Jean Paul Gaultier's haute couture runway show ended with the image of a willowy blonde bride in a diaphanous gown. The bride was a man, and one of the first models to walk for both men's and women's collections. The event marked the start of a trend. "This ad is gender neutral," proclaimed a 2016 poster for the fashion brand Diesel; "I resist definitions," announced a Calvin Klein ad in the same year, while a Louis Vuitton shoot featured Jaden Smith wearing a skirt. The art of Edward Burne-Jones and Gustave Moreau, the writings of Oscar Wilde, and the mystic Joséphin Péladan prove that the turn of the previous century was as compelled by androgyny as this one. From the late nineteenth to the early twenty-first century, the genders have blended: from Berlin in the 1920s to Hollywood of the 1930s with Garbo and Dietrich; from the 1940s Bright Young Things to the androgynous pop stars of the 1970s, and beyond. Patrick Mauries presents a cultural history of androgyny--accompanied by a striking selection of more than 120 images, from nineteenth-century painting to contemporary fashion photography--drawing on the worlds of art and literature to give us a deeper understanding of the strange but timeless human drive to escape from defined categories.
Call Number: TT506 .M38 2017g
Publication Date: 2017
Critical Fashion Practice: : from Westwood to van Beirendonck by Adam Geczy; Vicki KaraminasThere is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself.Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change.
Fashion and Museums by Marie Riegels Melchior (Editor); Birgitta Svensson (Editor)Why is fashion "in fashion" in museums today? This timely volume brings together expert scholars and curators to examine the reasons behind fashion's popularity in the twenty-first century museum and the impact this has had on wider museum practice.Chapters explore the role of fashion in the museum across a range of international case studies including the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, The Fashion Museum at Bath, ModeMuseum in Antwerp and many more. Contributions look at topics such as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences and how curators present broader themes and issues such as gender, class and technology innovatively through exhibiting fashion. Drawing on approaches from dress history, fashion studies, museum studies and curatorship, this engaging book will be key reading for students and scholars across a range of disciplines.
Fashion Theory by Malcolm BarnardFashion is both big business and big news. From models' eating disorders and sweated labour to the glamour of a new season's trends, statements and arguments about fashion and the fashion industry can be found in every newspaper, consumer website and fashion blog. Books which define, analyse and explain the nature, production and consumption of fashion in terms of one theory or another abound. But what are the theories that run through all of these analyses, and how can they help us to understand fashion and clothing? Fashion Theory: an introduction explains some of the most influential and important theories on fashion: it brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion every day and shows how they depend on those theories. This clear, accessible introduction contextualises and critiques the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used different theoretical approaches to explain - and sometimes to explain away - the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Through engaging examples and case studies, this book explores: fashion and clothing in history fashion and clothing as communication fashion as identity fashion, clothing and the body production and consumption fashion, globalization and colonialism fashion, fetish and the erotic. This book will be an invaluable resource for students of cultural studies, sociology, gender studies, fashion design, textiles or the advertising, marketing and manufacturing of clothes.
Publication Date: 2014
Fat Fashion by Paolo VolontéAverage body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin - dangerously thin according to World Health Organization standards. Why is the industry forfeiting a considerable share of the market in the form of plus-size consumers, seemingly against its commercial interests? Why does the thin ideal reign supreme despite damning evidence of its harm to women? And is there a way out of this system of thin ideals and segregated fat bodies? In this original study, Paolo Volonté answers these questions and more, drawing on influential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society. He reveals some surprising factors behind the perpetuation of the thin ideal such as the precedent of thin models and the introduction of standardised sizing for mass-manufactured clothing. He also revisits less surprising factors such as the attitudes of designers and consumers towards the female body, and notions of 'perfection'. By critically analysing these factors, Volonté reveals why plus-size fashion is often characterised by 'low aesthetic commitment' and low quality marketing. He explores the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike.
Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion by Giovanni Matteucci (Editor); Stefano Marino (Editor)Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion places philosophical approaches at the heart of contemporary fashion studies. Considering the mutual relationships between aesthetics, modern society and culture, fashion and the fine arts, and the way these relationships have influenced and shaped our views on identity and taste, this ground-breaking book also explores the various intellectual and cultural movements that inform how people dress. In the context of the most recent debates, the leading fashion and philosophy scholars contributing to this volume refer to and apply theories posed by key thinkers of the modern and contemporary age, from Darwin and Wittgenstein to Husserl and Goodman, in order to answer questions such as: What is the essence of fashion and the reasons behind its fascination? What is 'anti-fashion'? What or who do we imitate when we 'follow' fashion? What is fashion criticism and what should it be? Anyone studying or interested in fashion, philosophy or art will find this book a rich source of ideas, insight and information. Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion is a valuable contribution to contemporary fashion theory and aesthetics, one that revitalizes the way we look at the form, purpose and meaning of fashion and aesthetic experience.